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Brand Scorecard:
★★★★☆
Leather: 4.5
Hardware: 4
Design: 4
Engineering: 4
Craftmanship: 4.5
TOTAL: 4.21
Brand Website: dooney.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS
BRIEF HISTORY
Dooney & Bourke, founded in 1975, is an American leather goods company known for expert craftsmanship and timeless style. The brand launched with a mission to impact the fine leather goods market by selecting the finest raw materials and reviving traditional leather crafting techniques.
Inspired by classic bag shapes like mail pouches, saddle bags, and early American military gear, Dooney & Bourke blends classic and contemporary styles in every collection. Despite industry trends toward cheaper materials and manufacturing shortcuts, the company remains committed to quality and style, backing every product with an ironclad guarantee.
FIVE PILLARS OF A GOOD LEATHERCRAFT
CRITERIA | 5 (Very Strong) | 4 (Strong) | 3 (Mixed) | 2 (Limited) | 1 (Not Present) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Leather | A perfect balance of art and fashion of leather tanning. Rare and artisanal hides from exceptional tanneries | Good leathers for the application in hand. Coming from environmentally conscious tanneries | Average corrected leathers that do NOT require high-quality raw hides. Less info on the source of the leather | Low-quality leather choice with significantly less information about the sourcing practice. | Inferior sketchy leather derivates or non-leather materials. |
Hardware | Top of the line Stainless Steel or Brass Hardware with Highest Caliber Coatings | Common alloy or brass hardware with high-quality plating and thin protection that will last a good while. | Alloy hardware with acceptable coating. Lifetime may be impacted due to the coating of the hardware. | Serious flaws in the making and coating of the low-grade alloy hardware that is harmful to humans and the planet. | Non-metal, plastic, and non-durable hardware that is harmful to humans and the planet. |
Design | A professional design language that is unique and consistent with the brand | A creative take on a classical design concept | Minimal changes to common styles | Almost copy of common/famous designs. Dysfunctional elements. | Problematic design elements affect the functionality, durability, and aesthetics of the product. |
Engineering | Highly organized, sophisticated shape and form engineering with high-quality materials inside the craft. | Clean and quality inner support materials and structure | Acceptable cleanliness of inner work with medium-quality support materials | Messy inside with low-grade support elements | Complete lack of inner structure and craftsmanship. |
Craftsmanship | Expert craftsmanship with flawless, hand or machine stitching, demonstrating advanced skills. No visible errors; edge paint is avoided using superior techniques. | Perfect machine stitching with excellent edge finishing. Immaculate inside and out, with no visible flaws, showing a commitment to quality. | Good overall stitching and alignment with minor flaws. Acceptable edge finishing, with fairly clean interior and exterior. | Noticeable misalignment and sloppy workmanship. Multiple errors affect visual appeal, with untidy interior work. | Poor craftsmanship with missed stitches, visible errors, and uncleaned residues. Major issues that may affect durability. |
Overall Score | An incredible value for money that I have no problem recommending to anyone | Very good example of great quality for a great price without any risk to try | A considerable offer with a relatively high price. Make your choice at your own discretion | Consider it well within your own criterion as the quality/price is not a decision point I can recommend here | Stay away! |
READING MY ASSESSMENT SCORES
SCORE | NAME | DESCRIPTION |
|---|---|---|
5 | Strong Yes | ⭐ This grade is given to brands that present great value for the price they charge you for their product. I have no problem confidently recommending you check their products. These are the brands I reach out to ask if they can give me an affiliate link so your purchases using my link can support my content efforts. |
4 | Yes | 👍 This indicates that the brand meets all my expectations from the perspective of price and information they have about their products. I would happily buy their products at this level of quality/value score. This is the only other category of brands I request an affiliate link to support this channel to improve my Leathertainment content. |
3 | Mixed | ➖ There are areas that I found less than desirable for the quality/price performance I appreciate personally. Some high-end luxury brands may fall under this category given I am looking for tangible value in the products, ignoring the intangible brand prestige they may offer as a value to their customers. I am not a customer of these brands and I wouldn’t recommend them to my audience if they do NOT value brand logos. |
2 | No | 👎 This indicates that the product and the brand failed my expectations in significant ways and I won’t recommend them to anyone. |
1 | Strong No | ❌ This is the lowest assessment and indicates fundamental issues in the product and/or the brand. I would say look somewhere else. |
LEATHERVERSE MATRIX
The Leatherverse Brand Matrix visually compares leather brands based on sophistication and pricing, helping consumers understand their market positioning.
Legend
Vertical Axis: Ranges from simple artisan crafts to exclusive, master-crafted items.
Horizontal Axis: Covers pricing from low (no brand premium) to high (perceived luxury), with 2x multipliers for basic products and up to 15x for heavily marketed luxury items.
Diagonal Line: Represents the balance between price and performance. Brands on the line offer good value, those below suggest poor value, and those above offer exceptional value.
AUDIENCE & CUSTOMER'S PERSPECTIVE
Based on these criteria, how would you rate Dooney & Bourke as a brand?
How would you rate Dooney & Bourk as a brand?
5
4
3
2
PRODUCTS REVIEWED
Testing the Limits: Dooney & Bourke's All-Weather Leather 3.0 Review
Dooney & Bourke's All Weather Leather Crossbody 22
Watch the videos here:
When I first heard about the Dooney & Bourke All-Weather Leather, I was intrigued. The brand markets this signature material as a waterproof, cutting-edge leather they've developed over the years. Given my skepticism about such claims, I decided to put this bag through a series of rigorous tests to see if it truly stands up to its name.
DISCLAIMER: This is an UNSPONSORED review. I purchased all of these products myself and am not affiliated with the brand mentioned in any way. All statements and expressions made about the products are solely the opinion of Tanner Leatherstein and are not meant to be conclusive or definitive. The purpose of this video is for informational and educational purposes only. We recommend that as a consumer, you exercise your due diligence and research on the products before adopting the opinion of Tanner Leatherstein.
Initial Impression
My journey with this bag began when I stumbled upon Dooney & Bourke in Vogue Magazine. It was a surprise to see this brand among the usual luxury giants like Louis Vuitton and Dior. My curiosity led me to their website, where a gimmicky "wheel of fortune" offering a 10% discount left me underwhelmed. Nevertheless, I decided to purchase the crossbody 22 bag made with the famed All-Weather Leather, mainly because its design reminded me of the Hermes Evelyn, a bag I've long wanted to review.
When the bag arrived, my initial excitement took a hit. The packaging was lackluster, with a cheap dust bag that didn’t match the premium vibes I got from their Vogue ad. You know, a lot of $50 Amazon bags we’ve bought came with much better dust bags and packaging.
The Torture Begins
To simulate extreme weather conditions, I concocted a plan to subject the bag to artificially created different seasons. Here’s how it went down:
RAIN TEST
Finding a rainy day in Dallas during mid-June is almost impossible, so I had to create my own rainstorm. Using a hose, I soaked the bag for a full 20 minutes. This duration was chosen to ensure the bag would be drenched, simulating an intense downpour. Post-soaking, the bag was noticeably heavier, indicating it had absorbed a substantial amount of water. I expected the leather to be irreversibly damaged, as most leathers do not fare well when soaked. However, the All-Weather Leather seemed to be holding up.
SUN TEST
Following the rain test, I left the bag under the unforgiving Texas sun. The aim was to see how the leather would react to being dried quickly under extreme heat. Initially, I left the bag out for several hours, but it didn't dry completely overnight. To expedite the process, I secured the bag to the burning hood of my car, driving around to expose it to high winds and even more intense heat. This unconventional drying method attracted curious glances from my neighborhood. Despite this harsh treatment, the bag showed minimal signs of distress, which was impressive.
SNOW TEST
Simulating snow in Dallas required some creativity. I covered the bag with ice, letting it melt to create a snow-like effect. Ice water is more penetrative and damaging than rainwater due to its lower temperature. I allowed the ice to sit and melt on the bag, thoroughly soaking it once again. After the ice had melted, I subjected the bag to another round of sun exposure to dry it out. This process was repeated to mimic the cycle of snow and sun that could occur in winter conditions.
Results and Observations
To my surprise, the main body of the bag, made from the All-Weather Leather, withstood the tests remarkably well. The texture, sheen, and integrity of the leather remained largely unaffected, with the pebbling consistent and the leather not becoming overly dry or tough. These results were unexpected, as such extreme conditions typically cause significant damage to leather goods.
The back panel of the bag, however, revealed a less flattering side. It featured a cut piece of leather that seemed out of place, like a rejected piece that should never have been used on a visible part of the bag. This was a disappointment, as it marred the otherwise durable and high-quality appearance of the bag.
Inside the Bag
Dissecting the bag revealed a less polished interior, typical of rushed production. Surprisingly, I found a "Made in Vietnam" tag inside. Given the frequent mentions of Italian leather on their website, I had assumed the bag was made in Italy. This discrepancy was a bit of a letdown.
The minimal finish on the leather, which allows it to retain a natural feel while being water-resistant, is impressive. It’s clear that a lot of expertise went into developing this material. Despite some inconsistencies in branding and a few quality control issues, the leather itself is exceptional.
Hardware Quality and Ash Test
The binding leather is vegetable-tanned with no finish on it, making it a purely aniline natural leather. This gives it an exceptionally beautiful appearance, but it’s not water-resistant, so it darkened and water-stained throughout the torture tests. The distinctive crackling sound, combined with the black residue without any green hues after burning it, confirms that this is indeed vegetable-tanned leather as claimed on the website.
The hardware, however, was disappointing. It has a very thin plating that wears off quickly, revealing the lower quality of the zamak material used. I expected a much better selection of hardware from the brand, given its reputation.
Evaluating Cost and Value
Given that we have all the pieces in front of us, I decided to make a quick cost estimate to evaluate the price-quality performance, as we always do. The project used approximately four square feet of high-quality leather. My estimate for the leather is about $27. Assembling a bag of this size and caliber, including hardware, in Vietnam costs around $50. Therefore, the total cost of leather, hardware, and labor comes to approximately $77.
Considering this estimate, the $279 price I paid for the bag seems very reasonable. The price multiplier is less than four, which is quite acceptable by my standards, especially given the quality of the leathers used in this bag.
Conclusion
The All-Weather Leather truly lives up to its claims. The minimal finish on the leather, which allows it to maintain a natural feel while being water-resistant, is impressive and demonstrates a high level of expertise in its development. However, the poorly chosen leather piece on the back panel and some inconsistent branding practices, such as the weak packaging and the gimmicky wheel of fortune on the website, were disappointing.
Nevertheless, the overall quality of craftsmanship at this price point is very satisfying. The dedication to using specialty leathers that perform exceptionally well under rigorous testing speaks volumes about the brand's commitment to delivering reliable products. Therefore, while there is room for improvement, the All-Weather Leather bag from Dooney & Bourke ultimately earns praise for its durability, functionality, and commendable quality.
Scorecard
TANNER APPROVED!
★★★★☆ - 4.21
Criteria | Score | Results |
|---|---|---|
Leather | 4.5 | Good leathers for the application in hand. Coming from environmentally conscious tanneries |
Hardware | 4 | Common alloy or brass hardware with high-quality plating and thin protection that will last a good while. |
Design | 4 | A creative take on a classical design concept |
Engineering | 4 | Clean and quality inner support materials and structure |
Craftsmanship | 4.5 | Fair Value for quality with a brand premium: 5 to 6 x multiplier pricing. |
OVERALL SCORE | 4.21 | Very good example of great quality for a great price without any risk to try |
PRICE / COST MULTIPLIER | 5x | Fair Value for quality with a brand premium. |
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